Punk Rock Pilgrimage: Fabric Sourcing

At last, after designing Grace, cutting the pattern, and making the muslin, Stephanie heads to NYC's Garment District to source fabric.

 
As we all know from watching Project Runway, the right or wrong fabric has a huge impact on a garment. Most importantly, it must communicate the designer's vision as well as be structurally appropriate through weight, texture, and quality.

Stephanie designed Grace to have movement and a soft, feminine quality, which calls for lighter textiles. Color is another key element.  With so many hues of white and ivory, finding the correct shade in the right fabric can be very challenging.

As usual, the business end of sourcing fabric is sometimes at odds with the creative process. The most important criteria during selection is that the fabric must be available in quantity without the possibility of discontinuation. Generally, fabrics like chiffon or silk satin are plentiful, but things get tricky when it comes to looking for a unique or handmade textile.

One wholesaler's chiffon color card, each available in a variety of weights and colors.

For example, most high quality laces come from Italy and France, and are not always reproduced.  Stephanie may find a bolt or two that she loves, but that's it, unless she wants to pay to have it made in vast, expensive amounts. Add to that the fact that fabrics available in mass quantity often means fewer choices and you can imagine how frustrating it can be. It's like finding the right pair of jeans but none in the right color and/or in your size!

Novelty silks selection

Novelty fabrics

The following is a Venetian lace draped over silk charmeuse.  In this case, it is a beautiful, unique fabric that is available only in small quantities.  Pictured is the last bolt in stock. Stephanie can't make Grace out of it since no one would be able to reorder it in the sample fabrication!

Venetian lace and silk charmeuse

As a smaller designer, Punk Rock Bride makes all their gowns made to order, which means that several yards of fabric are ordered at a time when dresses are ordered instead of the designer housing multiple bolts in studio. A larger company, like J. Crew, orders mass quantities of fabric,  translating into bigger discounts in price and thus selection due to buying power.

As you can imagine, this makes it difficult and expensive for businesses to buy their fabric and remain competitive. Instead, more and more are turning to countries like India for specialty fabrics because of the abundant selection, affordable minimums, and lower costs.

After all that, Stephanie found a fabric she thought would be perfect for Grace...check back tomorrow to see what she found!

 ***All images by Stephanie of Punk Rock Bride