Punk Rock Pilgrimage: Muslin

Now that Stephanie of Punk Rock Bride has 22 pattern pieces all cut, she is ready to begin making the muslin.

A muslin is basically a trial run of a dress made in inexpensive fabric.  Like a reflection, it is a less detailed and more flimsy version of the real thing.  The muslin is an opportunity for the designer to make any changes in the pattern before the gown is produced in more expensive fabric.  Muslin is also used to check fit, and is sometimes used for customers so that the sizing of a garment is totally customized.  In this case, Stephanie will be taking the muslin to NYC so that she can size Jae, her model for the upcoming photoshoot.

First, Stephanie pins the pattern sections onto the fabric she is using for her muslin, and then hand cuts around each, carefully following the shape. 

All images via Punk Rock Bride

When all the components of the dress are cut out of cloth, Stephanie pieces them together to create a "pieced" muslin, meaning unfinished.

The first to be pieced is Grace's bodice, minus the draping at the bust and waist.

Since Grace has a sexy criss cross back, Stephanie plans to place the zipper on the side, allowing the lines of the gown to be uninterrupted.

Once Stephanie puts the skirt together and attaches the top and bottom of Grace, she is ready to drape and place the pleated belt detail.  This is one of the most time consuming steps of the entire process.

There is no pattern to follow, each pleat must be meticulously pinned, and the finished product has to be placed at just the right spot on the garment. Precision and an educated hand are necessary to ensure balance, proportion, and fit that not only lays correctly when worn, but also flatters the body and is pleasing to the eye.

Stephanie does not include any ruching on muslins, so the gathered detail on Grace's bodice is left to drape at a later date after Jae's fitting.

Finally, with the waist band attached, Stephanie has completed her pieced muslin!

Now she must add the zipper and "finish" it, meaning, now that all the pieces fit and it is put together, she will securely sew it all as no changes are necessary.

Once Grace's zipper is added and her seams are closed, Stephanie has her finished muslin ready to go to New York for Jae's fitting!

All images via Punk Rock Bride

All the steps of pattern making and sewing the muslin took Stephanie a total of about a week. Which is pretty intense, considering Grace is not completed yet! Even before starting these posts, I knew that a lot of work went in to making gowns, but seeing the step-by-step process really puts how much work is necessary into perspective.
Up next, fabric selection!